White’s Tree Frog Care: Setup, Diet and Lifespan
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The “white tree frog” is usually the White’s tree frog (Litoria or Ranoidea caerulea), a chunky green to olive-brown frog from Australia and New Guinea. It is not white. In captivity it needs a tall, ventilated enclosure of at least 20 gallons, a warm basking area near 30°C, 60-70% humidity, and gut-loaded insects every two to three days. Wash your hands after every contact.
Many people search for the “white tree frog” and expect a snowy-white animal. The frog behind the name is the White’s tree frog, also called the Australian green tree frog or dumpy tree frog. Its colour runs from jade green to olive brown.
This guide covers the species, a safe setup, temperature and humidity, feeding, handling and health. Where sources disagree, both numbers are shown. It is general information, not veterinary advice.
How this was made: prepared with AI assistance and checked against the sources listed at the end. Images are AI-generated illustrations, not photographs of real animals or products.
Key Takeaways
- The name is misleading: this frog is green to brown, not white.
- Plan for a tall enclosure of at least 20 gallons with climbing branches and plants.
- Aim for 60-70% humidity and a warm end near 30°C, with a cooler end and a thermostat.
- Feed insects of the right size every two to three days, and avoid overfeeding.
- Handle rarely, wash your hands after every contact, and keep young children away.
- Captive lifespans of 7-10 years are typical, and 20 or more years are possible.
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Gear for a tree frog enclosure
These product types suit a tall tree frog setup. Check size, ventilation and safety before buying.
Product titles, prices and ratings are provided by Amazon and are accurate only at the time they are displayed.
What is the white tree frog?
The common name “white tree frog” is shorthand for White’s tree frog. Lafeber Veterinary describes the back as jade green to olive brown with greenish lips. Adults measure about 5-11 cm, and females are noticeably larger than males.
FrogID, the Australian Museum citizen science project, notes a green back that sometimes has small white spots, especially in young frogs, a white belly and large toe discs. Some people use “white” because of that pale belly and those spots.
If you meet a frog sold as “white” or “snow white”, ask the seller which species and morph it is. Never buy a wild-caught frog without knowing the source. Lafeber notes that wild-caught frogs from Indonesia still reach the pet trade.
Where it lives in the wild
FrogID lists the range as northern Western Australia, the northern Northern Territory, north-eastern South Australia and most of Queensland and New South Wales. Reptiles Magazine also gives adjoining New Guinea. It lives in swamps and woodlands, but not in alpine areas.
The same source says it often shelters in buildings, in bathrooms and drainpipes. FrogID reports the frog as Least Concern on the IUCN Red List. Peak calling runs from November to February.
Key numbers at a glance
Use this table as a quick reference. Ranges differ by source, so the source is named.
| Item | Figure | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Adult length | 5-11 cm | Lafeber, FrogID |
| Minimum enclosure | 20 gallons, tall, for up to 4 frogs | Reptiles Magazine, Lafeber |
| Basking spot | About 30°C (RVC) or up to 35°C (Lafeber) | RVC, Lafeber |
| Cool end | About 25°C | RVC |
| Night minimum | Not below about 21°C (RVC); 18-21°C (Lafeber) | RVC, Lafeber |
| Humidity | 60-70% | RVC, Lafeber |
| Adult feeding | Every 2-3 days | Lafeber, Reptiles Magazine |
| Lifespan | 7-10 years typical; 20+ possible | Reptiles Magazine, Lafeber |
Choose the enclosure
Reptiles Magazine recommends at least 20 gallons for four young frogs, and prefers a tall layout because they climb. Lafeber says one to four frogs can share a 20-gallon terrarium. A single adult will use more height than floor space.
RVC suggests a wooden or plastic vivarium with sliding glass doors, which are easy to clean and hold heat. Use a tight lid with ventilation. Reptiles Magazine warns that poor airflow can cause respiratory problems.
Add branches of different thicknesses, live or artificial plants for cover, and at least one hide. Lafeber suggests a perch at least as thick as the frog’s body. For décor ideas, see our guide to bamboo terrarium decor for tree frogs.
- Keep small frogs apart from larger ones, because larger frogs may eat them.
- Use a substrate that is safe if swallowed, such as coconut fibre.
- Provide a shallow water dish big enough to sit in.
- Use dechlorinated or filtered water for the dish and for misting.
Temperature and humidity
Sources give slightly different heat targets. RVC advises a basking spot near 30°C, a cool end near 25°C and nights no lower than about 21°C. Lafeber gives a 24-32°C gradient, a basking spot up to 35°C and nights of 18-21°C. Reptiles Magazine suggests about 27°C by day.
The overlap is a warm end around 28-30°C, a cooler end in the mid-20s and a mild drop at night. Use a thermostat on every heat source and a digital max/min thermometer. RVC also says to guard heaters to prevent burns.
Aim for 60-70% humidity, measured with a hygrometer in the middle of the enclosure. Mist as needed and keep the substrate damp, not soaked. For help with stability, read our guide to a frog tank humidity stabilizer.
Lighting
Sources disagree here. RVC says tree frogs appear to benefit from low-output UVB for about 12 hours a day, and suggests following the lamp maker’s distance guide. Reptiles Magazine says the frogs need no light apart from what plants need.
Lafeber recommends low-intensity full-spectrum lighting to support calcium use. If you add UVB, give shaded retreats and replace the lamp on schedule. Ask an exotics vet which approach fits your setup.
What and how often to feed
Feed a variety of gut-loaded insects such as crickets, cockroaches and locusts. RVC says prey should be no wider than the gap between the frog’s eyes, to prevent gut blockage. Earthworms are a staple in Reptiles Magazine, and waxworms are treats.
Feed juveniles daily and adults every two to three days. Remove live food not eaten within 30 minutes. Overfeeding is a common problem in this species, and obesity is listed by Lafeber as an important medical condition.
Dust food with calcium and a vitamin and mineral supplement. RVC alternates the two, and Lafeber gives juveniles supplements twice weekly and adults once weekly. Follow your vet’s advice for your frog.
Handling and hygiene
Reptiles Magazine says this species tolerates handling better than most amphibians, but its skin is delicate and permeable. Lafeber advises handling as little as possible. Hands must be clean and free of soap, lotion and sanitiser before touching the frog.
Spot-clean droppings, dead insects and uneaten greens daily, and disinfect the full enclosure monthly with an amphibian-safe product, as RVC advises. Keep the setup out of food areas.
Signs of health problems
Lafeber lists chytridiomycosis, parasites, metabolic bone disease, obesity and “red leg” bacterial infection as key conditions. It also notes that poor husbandry can cause skin disease that becomes fatal quickly.
Frogs shed and eat their skin, and look cloudy beforehand. That is normal. Contact an exotics vet if your frog stops eating, has red skin, limb problems, swelling or odd posture. Find one through the ARAV directory.
Common mistakes
Most problems come from a few repeat errors. Fix these first.
- Using a short, wide tank instead of a tall one.
- Running heaters without a thermostat.
- Letting humidity swing between wet and bone dry.
- Offering oversized prey or too many feeders.
- Skipping supplements, or forgetting to gut-load insects.
- Handling often or with soapy hands.
How long do they live?
Sources differ. Reptiles Magazine says captives have lived over 20 years, though 7-10 is more typical. Lafeber says 20 or more years. Good care, steady temperature and a lean body weight are the best levers you control. Long life is a commitment before you buy.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is there really a white tree frog?
The name usually means White’s tree frog, which is green to olive brown. Some frogs have white spots and a pale belly. Pale or blue colour morphs exist in the pet trade, so ask a seller what the animal is.
How big does a White’s tree frog get?
Lafeber gives 5-11 cm in length. Reptiles Magazine says females often reach 10-11 cm and males are smaller.
Can I keep more than one?
Lafeber says one to four can share 20 gallons. Reptiles Magazine warns that larger frogs may eat smaller ones, so match sizes.
How often should I feed an adult?
Every two to three days, according to Lafeber and Reptiles Magazine. Juveniles eat daily. Avoid overfeeding.
Can children handle them?
The CDC says children under 5 should not touch amphibians or their habitats because of Salmonella risk. Older children need supervised handwashing.
What water should I use?
Lafeber lists aged chlorinated water, bottled spring water or filtered tap water. Never use untreated tap water.
Bottom Line
A healthy White’s tree frog needs a tall, warm, humid home, the right-sized insects and very little handling. Start with the enclosure and a thermostat, then fine-tune humidity and feeding.
If sources and your vet disagree, follow your vet. Related reading: our red-eyed tree frog care guide and pet frog care basics.
Sources
- Royal Veterinary College: White’s Tree Frog care sheet (2024), accessed 31 October 2026
- Lafeber Veterinary: Basic Information Sheet, White’s Tree Frog, accessed 31 October 2026
- Reptiles Magazine: White’s Treefrog Care Sheet, accessed 31 October 2026
- FrogID (Australian Museum): Green Tree Frog, accessed 31 October 2026
- CDC: Reptiles and amphibians, healthy pets, accessed 31 October 2026
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